Men of the Mountain
19,000 ft above sea level, it’s 6:30am and the sun is just rising above the cloud line which has now become our horizon. We’ve been trekking since midnight on our summit push; the last effort to reach the highest point in Africa. Mentally and physically, our team is on its last legs, but then, through the dawn light we hear voices raised in song.
“Jambo! Jambo bwana!”
“Habari gani? Mzuri sana!”
“Wageni, mwakaribishwa!”
“Kilimanjaro? Hakuna matata!”
Our guides are serene as we battle, breathlessly to the summit, they’re literally singing in harmony and it’s an eerie, peaceful sound. It’s no overstatement to say there’s no way up the mountain without them.
Their passion, kindness and humour are a trident of hiking poles, propelling you higher and higher. From day one in the rainforest up to the volcanic slopes of the summit, they emanate these core characteristics. Couple this with their immense strength and resolve, and you climb in awe of these inspirational men.
I always felt a little uncomfortable about taking two bags on the climb. One to be carried by me, the other by the guides or porters. To make this unsavoury prospect as easy as possible, I therefore packed my things ultralight and gave them my best hiking rucksack with hip-supports and padded straps. To my surprise however, these super-humans would simply throw it on their head and, this is no exaggeration, jog up the hill with it smiling.
This, to me, was simply awe-inspiring. How can a human be this comfortable in the face of extreme adversity? Slippery slopes, steep inclines, narrow rocky outcrops and ash laden rises were negotiated simply and effectively, all at high altitude. This whilst balancing bags, tents and cooking utensils on their heads. These are truly remarkable men.
COVID-19 has changed the world. It’s probably changed where you live and how you work and you’ve seen your kitchens, bedrooms or living rooms turned into meeting rooms and offices. You’ve been connecting to your friends and colleagues via webcam as opposed to face to face and maybe that’s become a bit stale.
But what if you didn’t have these possibilities? What if, one day, everyone stopped coming to your place of work and there was nothing you could do about it and no option to work remotely?
At the summit of Africa’s highest peak, a trunk-like arm rested around my shoulders and a low voice said, ‘Well done kaka, we made it!’
Theo, our chief guide, known affectionately as kaka tembo, and leader on summit night, cast his glinting eyes along the deep volcanic crater to his right. He scanned the glacier field to his left and then looked down at a very tired Englishman. Theo has summited over 300 times and so I asked him, ‘Do you ever get tired of this?’
‘Never’ he replies. ‘We’ve had this taken from us for over a year and we don’t know when we’ll get the chance to come back.’
It was during this conversation I realised that working on Mount Kilimanjaro is not a job, it’s a lifestyle. One driven by a love of the mountain along with all the challenges and rewards it holds for those willing to take it on.
COVID-19 has all but destroyed tourism in Tanzania, tourism which men like Theo and his team rely on to work and live a fulfilled life.
With this in mind, I’d like to sign off with a question for you, and maybe a bit of a challenge; do you think you could take on the tallest peak in Africa?
In essence, it’s a chance. It’s one of those rare opportunities to test yourself and those around you and to extend the boundaries of your experience. It’s tough but uplifting fun.
Tanzania is a safe and stable country with truly warm and hospitable people. I can’t think of a more important time for Kilimanjaro to make the shortlist for your next adventure. I know that Theo’s out there waiting to welcome you, and to sing you all the way to the summit.
Tell him I said hello.
Best wishes for your next adventure,
Tom